AXC offers the full line of products from this fine vendor, Texas Speedwerks. If there is something they have that you want not seen on AXC please email Dustin for special pricing.
TSW Suspension
Jack Points
Yes they fit R56, R53, R52 and R50.
Are you tired of cones snapping off your OEM jack points? Yeah, we were, too...
Black anodized, machined from solid billet aluminum and a full 3/4" shorter than OEM. Our's protrude 5/8" past the bottom skirt, while the OEM protrudes a whoppin' 1-1/8". Mike designed them so they'll work with the OEM jack, too.
Mounted via 1/4-20 stainless pan head screws and toggles... We ship a little vial of Loctite 262 with the set, so they won't loosen up. Install is a snap - takes about 5 minutes!
Are they strong? Well, in a word, yes. They have survived countless car jackings over the year... And, they made it through a run in with a tire barrier at TWS, but the jack points stayed put! They've stuck around through a few offs here and there, along with countless cone killing runs which snap the OEM pucks off like nobody's business.
Note - these jack points were not designed for use with the aero skirts, however some people choose to run them with the aero skirts anyway. They are a bit short for use with the aero skirts in our opinion.
Note - you should still be using jack stands if you're going to be working under the car... That's smart no matter what you have to do under there, or what kind of jack points you have!
Jack Points Install Guide (.pdf file)
$95.00 + $9.99 Shipping
X-Brace
TSW X-Brace for the 02-06 MINI mounts under the vehicle for better torsional rigidity. Dr. Mike gets complete credit for the ingenious design done in true grassroots motorsports style. Fabricated and welded in the USA using 7/8" 4130 Chromoly and laser cut gussets then powder coated black. The TSW X-Brace uses 4 existing bolts and installs in 10 minutes.
Why the X design? Way, way more torsional rigidity than any other design, especially those with a ladder arrangement. Our design picks up the lollipop mounting points and ties those into the front rear subframe mount - we personally feel this will provide more benefit than anything else out there. From what we gathered while spending many nights laying under the car, there's really no point in going much farther up the front subframe. There's a lot of gussets and welds up there, and it's a pretty solid piece. The weak points, in our estimation, are the rear tie points and the lollipop mounts.
The X-style brace is designed to resist the twisting motion that goes along with the torsional loading of the chassis. In other words, the suspension will react more precisely to uneven surfaces, particularly in situations where one wheel experiences a bump or dip. It's designed to tuck up as far as possible but take it easy on those nasty speed bumps!
X-Brace Install Guide (.pdf file)
$419.00 + 14.95 Shipping
Swaybar Endlinks
You've got preload! The OEM fixed length swaybar endlinks are the culprit.
Add your weight to the driver's seat and whammo, you have preload on both swaybars at any two cross-corners. No matter if you're at stock ride height or if you've lowered your car via lowering springs or coilovers - you've got preload. In fact, the OEM links are too long in the rear if you've lowered the car and the bar's effective rate is changed... In the front, they're too short!
The ability to neutralize the sway bar in your suspension system is a great advantage to baseline, balance, and refines your vehicle's handling characteristics.
The goal is zero preload - why? To allow the swaybar to work as it was intended... Control in the corners, flatter cornering, more stability, progressive loading.
We're talking about a whole new level of suspension performance... Period.
Not all endlinks are created equal... Everyone else's endlinks use heim joints. We use ball-stud links. Why use ball-stud links? Heim joints and high misalignment spherical bearings were considered, but do not offer the compliance, the dust seal, and are limited in their range of angular articulation. The ball links also offer a very low friction in the joint and has up to 50 degrees of articulation. This eliminates binding and allows for smooth load transitions. And, to top it off, they're strong as hell...
Which brings up the point - the OEM endlinks are weak. The welds break where the rod meets the rod-end. They're especially susceptible if you're running aftermarket swaybars - and even more so if you autocross or track! Like our other products, our endlinks are bulletproof...
We strongly recommend replacing the front and rear at the same time, in order to provide you with the ultimate in adjustability.
Swaybar Endlinks Install Guide (.pdf file)
$150.00 + 9.95 Shipping
Springs
Cold wound of the highest quality chrome silicon material, shotpeened, and then powdercoated... 3/4" average drop front to rear, with the front settling in about 5/8" to 3/4" drop and the rear about 7/8". Why the difference? We think all the rake from the factory looks silly. If you only want a slight drop to close up the wheel gap, look no further.
Linear design front and rear, slight increase in rate over stock in front and rear - they play well with OEM shocks/struts, Koni Yellows and Bilstein SP's. The ride with OEM shocks/struts is by far better than with OEM springs... The front and rear spring rates are the same - a combination that we have tested time and time again and that we feel works the best... It allows you, the user, to dial in whatever you want with a rear swaybar.
Being that they're cold wound, they won't sag in, and the rates are more predictable... These are top quality springs!
Note: These springs have not been evaluated or tested for the 07 MINI R56.
Springs Install Guide (.pdf file)
$199.00 + $18.95 Shipping
TSW Carbon Rotors
THE OEM replacement rotor, bar none. Slotted, high carbon steel rotors that will outperform any other OEM-style replacement rotor on the market. Fit’s R50, R52, R53 and will work with the rear of JCW brake kits. High carbon steel transfers heat much faster than normal mild steel. A video using an infrared camera of a normal rotor v. the high carbon steel rotor showed a remarkable difference. They had mounted a camera on a race car and the OEM rotors were cherry red (hot) while the high carbon rotors were running barely above blue (cool).
Cooler rotors mean less fading, less pad wear, less rotor wear, less pad transfer and much better overall performance.
Work great with Carbotech pads.
$119.00 + $15.00 Shipping
$99.00 + $12.00 Shipping
$199.00 + $25.00 Shipping